Sewing is a basic operation in Garments manufacturing and the most important part. But if there is a problem during sewing loss of production time and loss of production. In this article, I will try to Highlights this sewing problem with their remedies.
The sewing problem consists of three stages:
1. The problem of stitch formation
2. Seam pucker
3. Fabric damage at the seam line
1 The problem of stitch formation:
a ) Slipped stitch: If the upper thread in continuous stitches cannot pick the lower thread i.e. needle thread miss pick up the bobbin thread is called a slipped stitch
Causes:
1. The loop size or needle is small.
2. Needle deflection or bending.
3. Tension variation in lopper and needle thread.
4. Hook or lopper or needle is not able to hold the thread loop in proper time.
Remedies:
1. The timing of the hook or lopper with the needle should be adjusted properly.
2. Adjust needle and thread size.
3. Adjust tension properly
4. By changing thread
The above steps can reduce the slipped of the stitch. Before starting production every manufacturer should have thought about it, then go for production.
Staggered stitch: If the stitches produced by the needle are not parallel with the seam line, staggered stitches formed,
causes:
1. Needle vibration or deflection.
2. wrong needlepoint.
3. Not proper adjustment of needle size and thread size.
1. Needle vibration or deflection.
2. wrong needlepoint.
3. Not proper adjustment of needle size and thread size.
Remedies:
1. Needle size should be increased.
2. Change of needle.
3. Change of thread size.
c) Unbalanced Stitch: If the interlacement of the needle thread and bobbin thread does not take place at the middle of two layers of the fabric then unbalanced
Causes:
1. The incorrect tension of sewing thread.
2. Incorrect passage of thread through the guide.
3. Due to insufficient lubrication, (uneven) tension variation increased
Remedies:
1. Adjust thread tension.
2. Correct the passage of the thread.
3. Use good quality of the thread.
d) Variable stitch density: If the number of stitches varied in a unit of length then variable stitch density happened.
Causes:
1. The insufficient pressure of the presser foot, causing uneven feeding.
2. The feed mechanism is not working properly.
3. An improper unwinding of the thread.
4. Twisting of the needle at the bottom of the thread package.
5. Fraying of thread in the needle.
6. More tension in the thread.
7. Becoming of more heating of thread and hook.
8. Use of low quality of the thread.
Remedies:
1. Uses of the improved feed mechanism.
2. The increase of pressure on the presser foot.
3. Proper threading of sewing thread.
4. The thread can be changed
5. Proper use of lubricant.
6. Use of good needle.
7. A finer thread can be used.
8. The tension in the thread must be adjusted.
e) Frequent thread breakage.
Causes:
1. Improper unwinding of thread from the package.
2. Higher thread tension.
3. Excess needle heating.
4. Lower quality of the thread.
Remedies:
1. Reduce tension in tension in tension disc.
2. Reduce thread tension.
3. Use of strong yarn.
4. Change the needle if required.
5. Use a coarser needle.
6. Use of high-quality needles.
7. Use lubricant.
8. Use a needle cooler.
9. Confirm the oil supply.
10. Change of thread.
a) Unequal stretch on fabric:
Causes :
When two or more fabric plies stitch together due to thread tension uneven stitch occurred puckering.
Remedies:
1. The Improved feed mechanism of sewing m/c.
2. Skilled operator and fabric handling would be a special process.
Causes:
Due to wash shrinkage percentage difference of the fabric after sewn and wash seam pucker is formed.
Remedies:
1. The Shrinkage difference must be less than 2 %.
2. Shrinkage test should be taken before sewn.
c) Extension in sewing thread:
Remedies:
1. The Shrinkage difference must be less than 2 %.
2. Shrinkage test should be taken before sewn.
c) Extension in sewing thread:
Causes:
Sewing threads are always related to tension and for this tension after wash, there is a chance of relaxation.
Remedies:
1. The tension of the thread should be kept as low as possible.
2. By changing the sewing threads.
d) Sewing thread shrinkage:
Causes:
After sewing, if the sewing threads shrink due to washing or iron, then seam pucker
occurred.
Remedies:
1. Shrinkage of sewing thread must be equal to the fabric shrinkage
2. Before sewing, the shrinkage property of both thread and fabric should be known.
e) Fabric construction:
Causes:
In a compact fabric with high EPI and PPI, while sewing such fabrics, the threads are displaced by
the needle and because of lack of space, pucker may be seen along the holes created by the needles.
the needle and because of lack of space, pucker may be seen along the holes created by the needles.
Remedies:
1. By using fine/thin needles and fine/thin thread.
2. Reduction of stitch density.
3. Change the fabric if possible.
Fabric damage at the seam line:
Du Due to a broken needle or faulty needle this type of problem occurred. The fabric damage, sewing strength becomes low and due to more fabric damage, the fabric may be torn off at the sewing line. The fabric may be damaged with the new and good needle if needle size and needle selection are wrong. This fault is visible after washing and wearing.
Two types of fabric damage can occur with the needle at the seam line:
1. Mechanical damage.
2. Needle heating damage.
a) Mechanical damage: To minimize the damage
the following steps are taken:
1. Needle size and the point should be properly selected.
2. M/c speed should be reduced.
3. Application of lubricant.
4. Test the sewability before sewing of fabric.
b) Needle heating damage:
1. The temperature in the needle due to friction between the needle and the fabric is up to 300 – 350°C.
2. In this temp, needle or fabric both may be damaged
We can solve the problem by-Less speed of the machine, proper needle size, and shape, the short length of sewing, cool air use, lubrication. 
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